Red River Roundup
September 2024
We were on the road by 9 a.m., bound for Cooper Lake State Park, 260 miles to Northeast Texas.
Red River Roundup was the name of our RV adventure to add six new state parks, scattered south along or near the Red River border between Oklahoma and Texas, to our growing list of visited state parks. Here's the plan:
- 1) Cooper Lake State Park (Sulphur Unit)
- 2) Lake Bob Sandlin State Park
- 3) Bonham State Park
- 4) Eisenhower State Park
- 5) Cooper Lake State Park (Doctors Creek Unit)
- 6) Lake Tawakoni State Park
We stopped north of Waco to cap off our gas tank and get snacks for the road. Past Hillsboro, we veered right onto 35E through the towns of Milford, Italy, and Waxahachie, toward central Dallas. Now, if there isn't a fine Italian Restaurant thriving somewhere in Italy, Texas, the city council should rename the town.
Traffic grew increasingly dense as we approached downtown Dallas. Maneuvering our 30-foot travel trailer through Dallas's maze of freeways and heavy traffic was frightening; I was cut off in the heart of downtown by a reckless driver who didn't care about anybody but himself. And I'm sure I cut someone off when I suddenly realized the lane I was in was abruptly ending and had to quickly switch lanes without looking. Whew! I wouldn't say I like pulling a trailer through big cities.
Cooper Lake State Park
Once clear of the madness, I could loosen my grip on the steering wheel and relax. We headed east on I-30 over Lake Ray Hubbard, through Rockwall, and out of the Dallas area toward Greenville. At Campbell, we took HWY 24 to Commerce and meandered further east on Farm Road 71 to Cooper Lake State Park's South Sulphur Unit (the first park of 6 on our list). We arrived at 2 p.m. and set up camp for a four-night stay in a pull-through site (14) on the south shores of Jim Chapman Lake (still widely known by its former name, Cooper Lake).
After four and a half hours of freeway travel, we had nothing planned but relaxation for the afternoon. We explored the area around our campsite and grilled hamburger steaks for dinner. Later, we hiked the Honey Creek Interpretive Trail, explored the fishing pier and boat ramp, then headed inside for the day. There were few campers at the park, as we expected for a September camping trip. The campers were spread out evenly in the park, except at our site. Someone reserved the spot right next to us. They were not friendly folks - not even a wave.
On Tuesday, we ate a cold cereal breakfast and continued our Red River Roundup journey to Lake Bob Sandlin State Park near Pittsburg, Texas. We headed east on HWY 71 out of Cooper Lake State Park and stopped for gas in the tiny town of Birthright (odd name for a community), then headed south on HWY 19 through the northeast corner of Sulphur Springs. From there, we picked up I-30 East to Mount Vernon, then turned south on HWY 47, where we stopped at Dairy Queen and ordered Kids Chicken Strips for lunch.
"Why are you ordering the KIDS Chicken Strips?" the woman behind the counter asked as though we had made a mistake or lost our minds.
"The KIDS size meal is just the right amount for us," I said. "And when you eat the free dipped cone at the end of the meal, you're stuffed."
She looked confused; no self-respecting adult would ever order a KIDS meal. After lunch, we jumped in our truck and continued to Lake Bob Sandlin State Park.
Lake Bob Sandlin State Park
The first thing we always do when evaluating a new park is to check out all the campsites. We look for attributes like size and levelness of the pad, shade, water access, privacy, space between sites, and many other features, including things like the location of the fire ring - we don't like the smoky smell of the fire pit too close to the trailer door.
We drove through the four major camping areas and spotted several picturesque lake-side sites that looked excellent for fishing or swimming. There were no vacant campsites at Bob Sandlin State Park on that picture-perfect day. People were spending time in the outdoors around their picnic tables, enjoying games, grilled food, cold beverages, and lively conversations.
While driving through the park, we discovered a "trout pond" on the park map that was only a short jaunt from the main road. I was excited about catching a trout!
I suddenly realized I had brought my fly reel and flies, but my fly rod was safe and sound in our trailer back at Cooper Lake. I also had a small spinning rod and reel in my truck, but my tacklebox was also at Cooper Lake, enjoying the same sabbatical from fishing as my fly rod - poor planning.
Since there wouldn't be any fishing that day, we continued exploring the loop trail, which took us on a circuitous route back to our vehicle.
We drove to the day-use area at the location of the fishing pier. There were several fishermen with lines in the water. That's quite a few fishermen for 2:30 in the afternoon; they must be catching fish. We parked our vehicle and hiked to the pier. As I arrived, a woman was reeling in a fat crappie. Without saying a word, she handed it to her partner, who threw it into their ice chest. She didn't seem excited about catching that fish, and her partner didn't seem thrilled about throwing it in their cooler. They must catch crappie all the time.
Before heading out of Bob Sandlin State Park, we did a short hike to Brim Pond, where the trail map showed a wildlife viewing area. Thick woods full of life surrounded the pond. We stayed a while so as not to miss a thing. Before we left Bob Sandlin State Park, we stopped at the park headquarters for ice cream sandwiches and to chew the fat with the park ranger, then headed back to Cooper Lake.
Wednesday, we took a break from visiting state parks and drove north, 42 miles from Cooper Lake, to shop the shops in Paris, Texas. Since our April 2024 trip to Paris, France, we have wanted to visit Paris, Texas.
Bonjour Paris, Texas
When we arrived at the town square, we discovered a parking space on Main Street shadowed by one of the many historic red brick buildings in downtown Paris. Our first stop was the Antique Mall on the corner of W Plaza and N Plaza streets. The store did not have air-conditioning, but it was still early in the day and not yet hot. We browsed the antiques for thirty minutes, then continued strolling around the square.
We discovered Paris Brewing Company on W Houston Street, but it was only 11 a.m. and appeared closed. While looking for a posting of their hours of operation, we saw three men sitting at a small table inside. One of the men, Aaron Raper (we discovered later that he was the Director of Brewery Operations), saw us and came outside to say hello.
"Hello, folks. Can I help you?"
"Hello, sir. We were wondering what time you guys open today," I said.
"We are closed on Wednesdays," he said. "but will be open tomorrow."
"Rats! We won't be here tomorrow," I said.
"Well, we're not officially open, but you're welcome to come in and try some of our brews."
"That would be amazing," I said. "if it isn't too much trouble."
"Think nothing of it, come on in."
The cool air in the Taproom felt good. Aaron stepped behind the bar and poured four or five tasting glasses with their liquid gold. We tasted them all.
"These are all excellent beers," I said.
"I'm glad you like them. Pick the one you like the best and I'll pour you a pint for the road," Aaron said.
"I like them all, but today, the Paris Pale Ale suits me best."
Aaron poured me a pint and said, "Here you go, sir. Enjoy!"
I tried to pay him, but he wouldn't accept money. We will surely stop in for pizza and beer the next time we're in Paris!
With a cold brew in hand and a smile on my face, Tammy and I continued to cruise the shops. She bought a cookie at the Paris Bakery and shared a bite with me. It paired well with my Paris Pale Ale.
We stopped at a gift shop, Bee Sweet Paris Gifts, run by a cheerful lady named Glee, who shared stories about Paris's history, the town people, the best restaurants, her 2024 total eclipse B&B debacle, and the fire of 1916 that destroyed much of downtown. On our way out the door of her shop, she told us about a wall painting one of the local artists painted for her. It was two blocks away inside the back entrance to the Bagel Shop. She thought the bagel shop might be closed, so she gave us the combination code to the back door; you know you're in a small town when someone you don't know too well trusts you with security access.
"We have a free wine tasting at 4 o'clock every Wednesday. If you are still in town, you are welcome to join us," Glee said.
"We can't turn down a wine tasting," I said with a smile. "We'll be there."
We left Glee's little shop and enjoyed hamburgers and fries for lunch at the Corner Cafe across from the square. The family-owned restaurant's food, service, and hospitality met our high expectations.
After lunch, we shopped at the Vintage Marketplace Antique Shop two blocks east of the Corner Cafe and planned to get cappuccinos and croissants at Paris Coffee across the street, but they closed at 2 p.m.
Next, we drove to the Eiffel Tower of Paris, Texas, about three miles away, next to the Red River Valley Veterans Memorial Museum. Afterward, we returned to the square in downtown Paris and found another shady parking spot near Glee's shop. It was 4 o'clock and time for wine.
We entered the store and noticed Glee and a half-dozen other folks setting up the tasting area. They had a folding table surrounded by folding chairs in the middle of the shop covered with a green tablecloth and a generous display of finger foods. The lady who owned Paris Winery (Texas) opened a Bordeaux and a Sauvignon Blanc (both from France) for the day's tasting. A few more people came into the shop. Glee introduced us to all of the patrons as "The Tourists from Round Rock." After the first round of wine, the tasting turned into a party. I spilled my second glass before taking the first sip and heard someone say, "It's time to cut him off."
The wine tasting reminded us of our trip to Paris, France, four months earlier with two other couples; we bought wine to taste each evening in one of our hotel rooms while we shared stories of the day. It wasn't anything we planned; it was just something we did. Sometimes, the parties you don't plan are the most memorable. Au revoir!
On Thursday, after a potato and egg breakfast at our Cooper Lake State Park Sulphur Unit campsite, we headed out in our tow vehicle to visit the next state park on our list, Bonham State Park (3 of 6), 47 miles northwest.
From the Sulphur Unit, we meandered west on W Farm Rd 71 to the town of Commerce, then turned north on HWY 50 to Ladonia, then continued further north on HWY 34 through a zillion farms, stock tanks, cemeteries, and dilapidated wooden structures. At the crossroads, where the old Bug Tussle General Store still stood, we turned onto Farm Road 1550 west to the HWY 271 intersection, where we pushed north again to the Bonham State Park headquarters.
Bonham State Park
While checking in at the park headquarters, the ranger warned us that the lake had been exposed to the invasive Hydrilla approximately two years prior. Since then, the lake has become infested. They were working to remove the Hydrilla by introducing grass-eating carp to the lake.
The camping area was small, shady, and quiet. All the campers we saw were in an advanced state of relaxation. The lake was likely the park's featured attraction, and since it was hydrilla-infested, people were not recreating around it, thus adding to the quiet serenity. There were, however, plenty of herons and egrets eating small fish while perched on the floating infestation.
To wrap up our visit to Bonham State Park, we drove along Park Road 24 around the lake and connected again to FM 271 out of the park.
From Bonham, Texas, just north of the state park, we headed west on US HWY 82. At Sherman, we stopped at a Cracker Barrel and had turkey and dressing, mashed potatoes, corn muffins, and iced tea for lunch before continuing north on US HWY 75 to Denison, the birthplace of Dwight D. Eisenhower.
From Denison, we zigzagged generally north on narrow two-lane roads to the entrance of Eisenhower State Park (4 of 6).
Eisenhower State Park
Eisenhower State Park was the northernmost park on our Red River Roundup. It had plenty of RV campsites, tent sites, and screened-in shelters on the southern shores of Lake Texoma. Unlike most state parks, Eisenhower also had a fancy marina and yacht club.
As we cruised the park roads through the camping areas, we found spectacular campsites low near the water's edge and campsites with breathtaking views at the top of rocky cliffs. There were few level areas in the park.
Before leaving the Lake Texoma region, we wanted to cross the state line into Oklahoma. Traveling to another state may sound boring, but it isn't when you live in the center of a big state like Texas. We left Eisenhower State Park on Randell Lake Rd and hopped on HWY 91 that crossed over Lake Texoma Dam. We wanted to take some pictures of the Red River from the road. But the view on the left was Lake Texoma, which was beautiful but not much of a "river" view. On the right, below the dam, was a power plant. Neither view was what I was looking for.
We turned around in Cartwright, Oklahoma, and drove back into Texas. We took a wrong turn in Texas and ended up on 75 North, crossing the Red River again back into Oklahoma. We'll get a second chance to photograph the perfect Red River view. As we crossed the river, we planned to get a picture from the right side of the bridge, but a train trestle blocked the view. After we turned around in Oklahoma to return to Texas, we had another shot at a photo of the Red River, but a vehicle beside us obstructed our view. And there was too much traffic to go for another run. We laughed at the missed opportunities. It wasn't in the cards, so we continued our journey back to Cooper Lake.
Before returning to our campsite, we stopped in Birthright once again to fill up our tow vehicle while the trailer was not attached to it.
While I was pumping the gas, a not-so-sharp worker, emptying trash cans around the pumps, yanked a heavy plastic liner from one of the cans and tore a hole in the bottom. Stinky liquid spilled onto the concrete. Not knowing what to do next, the guy dragged the leaky bag through the store's main entrance, past the cashiers, out the back door, to the dumpster, leaving a trail of stench behind him. A woman operating the cash register noticed me watching the foolery. She shook her head as if to say, One of these days, I'm going to have a long talk with that boy.
We hooked up our trailer early on Friday and departed the Sulphur Creek Unit to return to Central Texas. But we still had two parks on our Red River Roundup to visit before heading home. The first of the two, on the north shore of Cooper Lake, was the Doctor's Creek Unit, only 20 minutes away.
Cooper Lake State Park - Doctor's Creek Unit
We arrived at the drive-up window at Doctor's Creek Unit and asked the park ranger if we could drive through and check out the park since we weren't planning an overnight stay. They said it would be fine. We cruised slowly through the small park and stopped at the ranger station on the way out.
"Can I help you?" she asked.
"We just wanted to look at your souvenirs."
"Sure. We have hats, T-shirts, cups, and other stuff. Are you looking for anything in particular?"
"Refrigerator magnets. We are trying to buy one for each state park we visit."
"We have a few to choose from. Have you visited many state parks?"
"This park is number 67, and we plan to stop by Lake Tawakoni State Park on our way home to add one more to our list."
"That's a lot of parks! Are you planning to visit them all?"
"We hope to. Someday."
"Do you have our TSP Scratch Off Poster?" she said as she reached for one on display. "When you visit one of the state parks, you scratch it off the map of Texas printed on the poster. When you have scratched them all, you have visited all the parks."
"We don't have one, but we definitely want one, and you can also throw this here magnet in the bag."
She rang up the poster and magnet, and we were on the road again to Lake Tawakoni.
We headed south on 19, past Birthright (I hope that boy didn't get fired), through Sulphur Springs, past Rockdale. Before reaching Emory, we crossed a bridge over one of the coves on the northwest end of Lake Fork. There were bass boats everywhere, anchored near the branches of old trees left uncut when they built the dam that formed the lake.
"I would love to fish here someday," I said.
"What lake is this?" Tammy asked.
"Lake Fork. It is supposed to be one of Texas's top bass fishing lakes."
After lunch in Emory, we continued south on 19 for a few miles and veered right onto 2324, then southwest on 47, and finally right on 2475 to Lake Tawakoni State Park's headquarters.
Lake Tawakoni
We parked our truck-n-trailer in the parking lot and hiked to the HQ and park store. A cool blast of conditioned air greeted us as we walked through the door.
"How can I help you?" the park ranger asked.
"We're just browsing for now," I said.
"Sure. Take your time."
We found the ice cream cooler and a magnet right away. I also spotted a T-shirt with the silhouette of a fisherman on a bass boat printed on the front that read, Working Remotely. I HAD to buy THAT shirt.
We left the park headquarters with my new T-shirt, our new magnet, two chocolate ice cream bars, and a Day Pass to explore the park. We drove around the park and checked out all the campsites. There were several pull-through sites with full hookups and even more back-in sites with electricity. The day-use area had a massive fish-cleaning station near a boat ramp. Fishermen were cleaning scores of fish! There were boat trailers everywhere. I imagined fishing guides owning many of them. Lake Tawakoni would be the perfect lake to hire a guide for fishing areas outside the park boundary. We'll be back soon, Lake Tawakoni!
So ends our Red River Roundup. We successfully added six state parks to our ongoing life list of state parks, 68 and counting. See you on the trails!
~ Matt
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